Chowder

A Chef’s-Eye View

At Chowder, we do a lot of the talking (and eating, but hey—it’s our job). So we thought we’d hand over the mic back over to Boston uber-chef and guest blogger Ken Oringer for a moment. Following the successful launch of Coppa in December—a collaboration with chef Jamie Bissonnette—Oringer found time for a little culinary getaway to Spain. Here, he explains why the best thing a busy chef can do for his business is get the heck outta town. Read the rest of this entry »

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Chowder Cooks Sous-Vide

sous_250Being a food journalist comes with obvious perks—getting to dine at some of the city’s most elegant spots, hearing about cool new restaurants before they’re even open, and sampling really interesting fare. But sometimes we also get try brand-new kitchen gear, like the new SousVide Supreme, which hit stores this winter. For the home cooks on our staff, it’s a blast.

Even if you haven’t heard about sous-vide—via food magazines or shows like Top Chef—you’ve probably eaten something cooked using this advanced slow-cooking method. Its name means “under vacuum,” and it involves cooking vacuum-sealed meats, fish, and produce in a controlled water bath at very low temperatures. Restaurants all over Boston employ the technique to produce uber-tender meats with incredible flavor and consistency. Done right, the method accomplishes all that regular cooking does–like killing off unpleasant microorganisms—and more. But it’s still not technically legal here, say several chefs (who shall remain anonymous), since health departments aren’t quite sure what to make of the low-temp technique from a food-safety perspective. You generally won’t see “sous-vide” written on a menu; dishes prepared this way are often called “slow-cooked,” several chefs-in-the-know explained to me.

So when I got a chance to try the first at-home machine for sous-vide cooking, I jumped. Read the rest of this entry »

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A Healthy Cooking Crash Course

I freely admit: I have no business posting on a food blog. My most impressive culinary feat involves sauteeing veggies to add to Paul Newman pasta sauce; my preferred appliance is the microwave. I’ve never conquered that novice-cook skittishness about handling raw chicken.

But though I own precisely zero cookbooks, I do spend an inordinate amount of time reading about clean eating, veganism, and the sundry ways in which nutrition may or may not guard against disease. And I recently confronted the cold, hard truth: Even if I continue to spend 64 percent of my take-home pay at the Symphony Whole Foods’ prepared foods section, I will never be fully aware and in control of what I consume unless I learn to cook.

Luckily, I got to attend a one-night healthy cooking class at the Boston Adult Education Center led by Phyllis Kaplowitz, executive chef of Baker’s Best Catering in Newton.

Read the rest of this entry »

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Helping Haiti, One Bite at a Time

YeleIn the wake of Haiti’s tragic earthquake, local bars and restaurants are rising to the occasion by hosting events to raise money for the devastated nation. Benefit nights at Southborough’s Tomasso Trattoria last weekend generated over $1,300 for the Red Cross, says owner Tom Prince. Last night the South End’s Beehive hosted a  “7 for 7” benefit concert, and servers at Myers+Chang have been donating a percentage of their tips to Haiti relief.

Care to eat and drink for the cause? Here are several upcoming events where you can dine well and do good. Read the rest of this entry »

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New Restaurant Roundup

open

A slew of new restaurants have opened up in recent weeks. We haven’t yet eaten at all of ‘em, but believe us: We’re trying. A few of the standouts:

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First Bite: Parish Café South End

parishEighteen years after Parish Café —that neighborhood purveyor of celebrity chef-created sandwiches—opened its doors in the Back Bay and became a fixture for area residents starved for casual-chic options, the venerable restaurant has finally moved itself into another neighborhood: the South End, an area with no lack of midrange dining choices.

It’s clear owner Gordon Wilcox didn’t stray too far from the formula for this outpost: The cozy space feels at once homey yet refined, and the well-priced, crowd-pleasing menu of apps, salads, sandwiches, and a small collection of entrées is the same as at the original location. What we found on a recent visit, though, was that the kitchen still has a few kinks to work out. Read the rest of this entry »

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New: Brunch for the Brunch-Deprived

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Photo by Kate Kelley.

The dining industry is used to waiting on the hungover (and grumpy) set on Saturday and Sunday afternoons. (We’re sorry!). Sadly, our city’s hardworking chefs, bartenders, and servers rarely get to enjoy a brunch of their own.

But oh, how the tables have turned. We just got wind of a fun new weekly special: From noon to 4 p.m. on Mondays (which are like Saturdays for weekend-working chefs), Inman Square’s Trina’s Starlite Lounge is serving up its trademark biscuits and gravy, fried chicken and buttermilk waffles along with brunchy beverages. Of course, it wouldn’t be Trina’s without the griddled dogs, and for brunch, they serve ‘em with a fried egg and American cheese on Wonder bread. Read the rest of this entry »

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How2 Throw an Excellent Holiday Party

Duck

Seared duck breast on wild rice pancakes

Reading a recipe isn’t the same as taking a lesson from a trusted source. Sure, the food might taste okay, but as for its curb appeal, maybe you could do better?

This week while you’re planning your holiday party, take advantage of these video tutorials from our friends at how2heroes. Local chefs and bartenders demonstrate how to expertly create appetizers like bacon-wrapped dates and seared duck breast on wild rice pancakes. Read the rest of this entry »

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New Year’s Eve Eats

NYE_partyinviteCelebrate the end of ’09 (thank God it’s over!) with our abbreviated collection of restaurant parties around town. Because you should put a little something in your belly before toasting to 2010. And yes, there will be food!

Industry Vets in Limbo

We’re all wondering what’s next for chef William Kovel of the Four Season’s extinct Aujourd Hui. And what of mixologist Tom Schlesinger-Guidelli, formerly of Craigie On Main? Their futures are uncertain, but for one night only, the two will pair up to host a party in the former Great Bay space. They’ll be toasting 2010 over passed appetizers (mushroom strudels with black truffle, duck and almond pisillas), gnocchi and panini food stations, and custom cocktails and sparklers. Hmmm… Dec. 31, 8 p.m., $95 (includes food, champagne toast, one cocktail, and passed cocktail flights-cash bar thereafter), 500 Commonwealth Ave., Boston. For tickets, call Abby Shoolman at 617-532-9100, or email her at abby.shoolman@gmail.com. Read the rest of this entry »

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Provence Town

lavenderOnce upon a time, Boston had small plates. Then came upscale regional Italian, the “urban brasseries,” the hyper-local and seasonal menus, and then what feels like an interminable flood of comfort food.

And then, finally, a new trend starts to emerge from the sea of mac and cheese: Judging by this winter’s additions to the restaurant scene, it seems Provençal cuisine might be the city’s next big thing. Bistro du Midi, which opened last month in the tony Heritage on the Garden building, is named for the Midi region in southern France, and chef Robert Sisca plays up  the seafood, fresh herbs, olives, and vegetables signature to the area’s cuisine. After a lovely dinner of pan-fried halibut with chickpeas and golden raisins capped off with a dessert of rosé-poached pears, we thought, yes. After months of eating pork belly and braised short ribs, this light, fresh stuff is just what we need. Read the rest of this entry »

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