Archive for November, 2008

FIRST BITE: RISTORANTE DAMIANO

Posted by Donna Garlough on 11/24/2008 at 4:10PM | 6 Comments

1227557360Like most people I know, I don’t go to the North End seeking gastronomic epiphanies. I go for good food, okay wine, and great atmosphere. If I walk out with a full belly, a slight buzz, and sides that ache from laughing through dinner, I’m happy. (Something about the ever-present scent of garlic makes me easy to please.)

On a recent Friday, Hanover Street’s new Ristorante Damiano appeared to be just my speed: somewhat frenetic, very loud, and entirely fun. READ MORE

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WHAT’S THE DISH?

Posted by admin on 11/21/2008 at 12:54PM | No Comments

Your Chowder hounds have sniffed down the best culinary events in town. Check back every Friday for your weekly prix-fixe of foodie festivals, cooking classes, wine tastings, and more.

1227281009Taste of Cape Cod Holiday Festival
Nov. 23, 1-6 p.m.
Resort & Conference Center of Hyannis

This time of year, the drive to the Cape is shorter than the wait at the new Craigie. The best Cape restaurants, including Barnstable Restaurant & Tavern, Gracie’s Table, Island Merchant, Bleu, Circadia Bistro, and Vining’s Bistro, among others, will be serving up samples of their signature dishes.

Da Vinci Prix Fixe
Every Monday and Tuesday, 5-10 p.m.
Da Vinci

You don’t have to wait for Restaurant Week to enjoy a great deal at Da Vinci. Every Monday and Tuesday, they’re offering diners the choice an entree, appetizer, and dessert for $29 per person. READ MORE

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FIRST BITE: ASANA AT THE MANDARIN ORIENTAL

Posted by Jolyon Helterman on 11/20/2008 at 1:56PM | No Comments

1227203758Hotel restaurants serve many masters.

They must whip up eggs barigoule and intricate oatmeal-bowl extravaganzas for the power-suited traveler. They’re obliged to turn uncontroversial lunchtime fare into the appropriately fancified likes of Kobe Burger Three Ways and Deconstructed* Caesar Salad (more often than not “*with three grilled Santa Barbara spot prawns, add $18“).

Hours later, the balancing act becomes even harder. The corporate accountants want to lure in the expense accounts seeking steakhouse standards. The marketers want dinner plates that resemble minimalist still lifes that square up with the glitzy multimillion-dollar décor and $40-a-pop price point. The chef, bless his palate, just wants to create magic.

It was amid such a cacophony of mandates and mantras and focus-group-addled wisdom that Chowder first sampled the cuisine at Asana, the Mandarin Oriental Hotel‘s “signature” restaurant, a bustling, undeniably swanky scene on the ground floor along Boylston Street. A restaurant that, through no fault of its own, is doomed, from the outset, to play third fiddle to Chef Frank McClelland’s adjacent (and one floor up) L’Espalier and Sel de la Terre, two beloved known-quantities that have a ready-made fan base. READ MORE

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MIXOLOGIST DALE DEGROFF’S HOLIDAY DRINK SUGGESTION

Posted by Amy Derjue on 11/18/2008 at 12:10PM | No Comments

1227019448Last night, bartenders and imbibers from around Boston gathered at Drink to celebrate renowned cocktail maker Dale DeGroff’s latest book, The Essential Cocktail. Small samples of Manhattans (made with rye whiskey or bourbon) and Cosmopolitans flowed freely as DeGroff worked the room.

Before we sampled one to many of his libations, we talked to DeGroff about what he recommends you serve guests this holiday season.

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GOT (MEAT) BALLS?

Posted by Donna Garlough on 11/17/2008 at 3:13PM | No Comments

1226949190When I was in college, a friend of mine had a class in the Agriculture school called Meat Science, and his textbook was a brilliant tome called The Meat We Eat. And for some reason, I couldn’t get that four-word mantra out of my head while traipsing around Dante‘s recent Ball Brawl, an al fresco meatball cook-off held on the restaurant’s patio.

Boy, was there meat.

Lots and lots of meat. READ MORE

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BUZZ: MARC ORFALY TO OPEN EATERY AT LOUIS BOSTON

Posted by Donna Garlough on 11/14/2008 at 3:22PM | No Comments

We at Chowder still aren’t sure how we feel about mixing food and fashion (apart from our love for billowy trapeze dresses, which let us put away a seven-course tasting menu with no telltale bulge). We like Michael Leviton‘s Persephone, which shares space with the Achilles Project and all its upscale wares. But we were never entirely sold on Boston Public, a.k.a. the boite in Louis Boston, which shut its doors in May (presumably for nonpayment of taxes).

So we’re intrigued by a bit of buzz that came our way today: that chef-about-town Marc Orfaly will be taking over the indie retailer’s now-empty restaurant. Apparently, all outstanding tax issues have been resolved, and they’re ready to get cooking. READ MORE

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WHAT’S THE DISH?

Posted by admin on 11/14/2008 at 3:20PM | No Comments

Your Chowder hounds have sniffed down the best culinary events in town. Check back every Friday for your weekly prix-fixe of foodie festivals, cooking classes, wine tastings, and more.

1226682134Harvest Pumpkin Dinner
Nov. 14, 5:30 p.m.
Summer Winter, Burlington Mall

You know we love our pumpkin beer, but we also love food that features the orange squash, and not just for pie, either. Summer Winter‘s dinner fills our fancy with gourd-laced empanadas, roasted chicken with caramelized onion and roasted pumpkin sauce, and pumpkin beignets.

Home Sweet Home
Nov. 14, 7-11 p.m.
Hyatt Regency Cambridge

Go ahead, skip dinner tonight. You’ve got better things to fill your belly with. Namely, desserts from the best pastry chefs all over town, who will be competing at the dessert tasting to benefit the Cambridge Housing Assistance Fund to help the homeless. Guests will sample delectable treats from Rosie’s Bakery, Zephyr, Burdick Chocolate, Kickass Cupcakes, Toscannini’s, and more. READ MORE

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A RAW DEAL (OR: CRUDOS…AND DON’TS)

Posted by Jolyon Helterman on 11/13/2008 at 1:29PM | No Comments

1226597335That’s the thing about hot trends, fashion or otherwise: They’re so popular, everyone wants in on them.

And therein lies the trouble.

In the restaurant world, some of the hottest trends of years past have been adopted broadly and enthusiastically, with mostly harmless results—pomegranate, Okinawan taters, Kobe absolutely-everything. While “Kobe mini-burgers” may be missing the point entirely, there’s certainly nothing unappealing about scarfing down overly pedigreed sliders.

Other foodie fads, however, fall more into skinny-jeans territory. Meaning, not everyone’s got the goods to make them shine. The worst current offender? READ MORE

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BARBARA LYNCH’S NEW LUNCH SPOT IS OMG! GOOD

Posted by Amy Traverso on 11/12/2008 at 3:59PM | 1 Comment

1226519822Whenever I hear about an exciting new restaurant, I try to remember that, as a professional food editor, it’s important to maintain a critical distance, to stay skeptical, and keep the consumer in mind.

Which is whyI held off for all of four minutes before completely losing my mind at Sportello, Barbara Lynch’s ohmygodit’ssogoodyouguys new Italian lunch counter in Fort Point’s FP3 building.

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REPURPOSING YOUR HALLOWEEN CANDY

Posted by Amy Derjue on 11/11/2008 at 12:56PM | No Comments

1226352053Plastic shopping bags full of snack-sized candy bars have been cropping up with alarming frequency at the Chowder offices since Halloween. Far be it from us to turn down free candy, but why not transform the extra goodies into yet another treat?

It’s a fun project for the kids, and we get a change of pace.

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