The generic, large, loud, bustling spaces that make up the new L’Espalier at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel mean an entirely new concept has risen from the ashes of the old. I mourn the old, but change comes to all things. Chef’s gotta make a living, and how will he do it? Volume. And apparently appealing to a new, furrier species of clientele.

We ordered the Autumn Degustation Tasting Menu and the Vintner’s pairing. The butter-poached Maine lobster was sweet, succulent, and tender. The foie gras torchon was smooth, buttery and perfectly seasoned (though the concord grape foam that accompanied it was a tad too sweet, in our opinion). Other courses, from the poached beef tenderloin, to the escolar, to the Thai-spiced Colorado rack of lamb on native pumpkin were as lovely as ever.

And we could almost hear ourselves think over the din of the eight-top of energetic guys (clearly enjoying the wine list) the hostess seated us next to in “the library,” described the day we made our reservation as the most intimate space in the new L’Espalier. (The other rooms, we figured, were even more like Gillette Stadium on game day, so we stayed put.) Continue reading “First Bite: A Ruff Crowd at L’Espalier” »