Chowder

Archive for the ‘Chefs’ Category

Demystifying Cheese at Rialto

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When Boston’s food lovers around town see fresh mozzarella on their favorite menus, there’s a good chance Lourdes Fiore Smith had something to do with it. The daughter of Italian immigrants has cheesemaking in her blood, and supplies handmade mozz, burrata, and mascarpone to some of the area’s top restaurants (think Oleana, Beacon Hill Bistro, and 51 Lincoln). When Chowder learned that Smith was joining Chef Jody Adams at her monthly cooking class at Rialto a few weeks ago, we jumped at the chance to see how she makes curds and whey.

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When Chef’s Away, Who Sautés?

Photo by Keller + Keller

Photo by Keller + Keller

For local chef/owners, branching out from one restaurant to several is a mark of success. But while seemingly empire-minded chefs (e.g. Todd English, Ken Oringer, Barbara Lynch) make opening a 3rd, 4th, or even 10th venture look easy, the transition from chef to multi-restaurant owner requires lots of careful planning. (It also helps if you know how to juggle.)

When Krista Kranyak, owner of Ten Tables in Jamaica Plain, opened a second Ten Tables in Cambridge this past February, she was constantly shuttling between the two locations. Her survival strategy? Rely heavily on general managers Sean Callahan in Cambridge and Stan Hilbert in JP. “I have the vision of what I want to create, and I hire the right people to oversee that vision,” she says.
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First Bite: Ginger Park

gingerparkThe truth is, we never really liked Banq. Well, some of us did; to the rest, it was a highly-designed, overly fussy fusion spot serving icky apps with muddled Indian and Asian flavors, and after the initial novelty died down, we never went back.

Apparently we weren’t alone. With seats going empty and nonexistent buzz, owners Mark Raab and Hemant Chowdhry decided to relaunch the restaurant, renaming it Ginger Park—not to be confused with the Ginger Exchange, a just-opened sushi spot in Inman Square—and bringing in chef Patricia Yeo, an NYC import who has cooked under celeb chef Bobby Flay. Her new menu is an upscale version of Southeast Asian street food, not terribly unlike that at nearby Myers+Chang. (Yeo insists you can’t compare the two, though a recent look at the menus shows both serving potstickers, spring rolls, steamed buns, tea-smoked meats, a papaya salad, and sides of eggplant and Brussels sprouts.) (more…)

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Fall Harvest Prix Fixe Dinners

fall-harvestThis fall, many restaurants have put together sumptuous, multi-course fixed-price dinners at relatively minuscule price points. Feast your eyes (and stomach) on these.

OctoberFeast at Bambara
Oct. 17, 7 p.m., $40 per person

Join Chef Jay Silva and the team at Bambara when they host OctoberFeast, a traditional fall feast paired with seasonal beer and wine.  All guests who attend will also receive tickets to King Richard’s Faire, New England’s longest-running Renaissance Festival.

Book it!

Fall Prix Fixe at BOKX 109 American Prime
Every Sunday and Monday evening from 5-10 p.m., $20.09 per person

BOKX 109 American Prime at the Hotel Indigo in Newton has a new fall three-course prix fixe available on Sunday and Monday evenings from 5-10 p.m. for only $20.09 per person. It includes a fall salad of Bartlett pears, candied pecans, and Great Hill Blue, and an entree choice of wood grilled chicken breast or housemade herbed linguine. And for dessert, enjoy crispy Nutella ravioli with Frangelico Anglaise.

Book it!

Ken’s Fried Chicken Sunday Supper at Clio
Every Sunday, 5:30 p.m.-close, $35 per person

Every Sunday, the Clio dining room will open after 5:30 p.m., and chef Ken Oringer will present his twist on the bird for $35 per person. Ken’s Fried Chicken Sunday Supper includes accompaniments like cornbread, greens, and a seasonal fruit crisp, but you can also order from the regular menu.

Book it!

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Second Bite: Bon Savor

RC_BonsavorboxFor a chef coming on board at an existing restaurant, injecting one’s personal style into a restaurant while still keeping the heart of the operation can be a tricky business. But by maintaining the South American-French fusion concept while adding a few twists (like a raw bar) to J.P. favorite Bon Savor, it seems that Marco Suarez, formerly executive chef at Eastern Standard, might have done the near impossible.
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Chef Shake-Up

Chef Marco Suarez of Bon Savor.

Chef Marco Suarez of Bon Savor.

You’ve been known to hit the road to hear your favorite musician, so why not pound the pavement to find your favorite chef?

Recently, some of Boston’s culinary movers and shakers have packed up their knives and gone to new kitchens. (more…)

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Kidding Around

poptartKids have it easy. Do they worry about the recession? Global warming? Baseball players running for office? Nope. It’s no wonder, then, that the foods we used to see in our school lunch boxes are popping up on area menus—a throwback to the days when dodgeball and recess were our two biggest concerns. (more…)

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Flubbergasted!

waiterDining out as frequently as we do—for me, it’s three to five nights a week—it’s inevitable that my fellow staffers and I eat our share of unhappy meals.

Usually, it’s just crummy food we have to deal with. But what do you do when it’s a service glitch threatening to ruin your meal? When a restaurant flubs and knows it, what’s the appropriate course of action? Not everyone seems to agree. Consider these recent incidents:

Flub #1: The Faux Fix
With a 9:00 reservation at a North End restaurant known for its cozy ambience and neighborhood appeal, we showed up on time and were told our table wasn’t yet cleared. No worries, we said; we’re in no rush.

But 9:00 became 9:10, and then 9:30. Noticing our irritation—or maybe hearing our stomachs growling—the hostess apologized. “I am sooo sorry,” she gushed. “Your table will be up soon. Can we offer you a glass of wine while you wait?” she asked, handing us a wine list and ushering us to a bench outside. “I can bring it out to you. Again, we’re so sorry about this.” (more…)

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Open Season

Down economy? What down economy? While restaurant openings were scarce in the first half of ‘09, summer’s end is proving a hotbed for casual, affordable spots launching all across the Hub. Here’s our quickie guide on where to get your grub on in the coming months.

OPEN NOW

The Stork Club has settled into the spot where Bob the Chef once reigned (and where Circle existed for precisely one hot second). A soulful South End resto-lounge, it has a menu of comfort-food classics (think meatloaf and buttermilk fried chicken) and live jazz and blues nightly. 604 Columbus Ave., Boston, 617-391-0256, storkclubboston.com.

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Chowder Learns How2

When it comes to dining out, we have no problem dishing out advice. Whipping up good meals in our own kitchens, on the other hand, is another matter. But lately we’ve been taking our cooking cues from Boston-area chefs via Cambridge web startup How2Heroes.com.

The site has video demos and tips on everything from what to do with all that zucchini from your garden (answer: zucchini wrapped potatoes with avocado cream) and how to clean a squid (hint: don’t rupture the ink sack!). Chef Jody Adams of Rialto, which took home this year’s Best of Boston Italian award, demonstrates how to trim an artichoke. Meanwhile, Craigie On Main’s Tony Maws, another BOB recipient, gives one-on-one instructions on how to cure duck breast.

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