Will Gilson, Garden at the Cellar

While some lament the end of an already-too-short summer, we’re actually excited for autumn. There’s a lot to look forward to—the beautiful New England foliage, apple picking with friends, and the return of your favorite television shows. But most of all, we’re excited for fall flavors! We can’t think of a better chef to get you excited about autumnal ingredients than Will Gilson. As the owner and chef of popular Cambridge restaurant Garden at the Cellar, Will is known for his farm-to-table cuisine and use of seasonal ingredients. Here is an exclusive look at some of his favorite fall recipes to recreate for your friends and family. They are suitable for all sorts of fall festivities, from dinner parties to tailgating.

 

What are some ingredients cooks can look forward to using now that fall is upon us?

Fall may be my favorite time to cook—wild mushrooms are abundant, I can pair more things with bacon (which is always best for me!), and fall squashes and root vegetables can take center stage.

 

At Garden at the Cellar, how do you incorporate seasonal ingredients into your menu?

We like to have the fall ingredients take center stage.  If we do a pork chop, we emphasize the pairing with an heirloom-style apple or a locally grown pumpkin.  Right now we are gearing up to do a warm kabocha squash salad with locally made burrata and fried sage leaves.  A little brown butter vinaigrette on that, and I’m a happy kid.

 

For many Bostonians, fall is tailgating season. What’s a good recipe that travels well and is a crowd-pleaser to bring to the game?

If you are confident enough to make sausage at home, it is always a crowd pleaser.  If not, steak tips are my favorite Massachusetts “hangin’-out-by-the-grill dude” kind of food.

 

Do you have a favorite recipe people can use after they do some apple picking?

One of our bar favorites in the fall are the bacon-wrapped dates with curried apple hash. [Check out the recipe, below.]

 

Any other outdoor food activities you’d suggest for autumn?

Mushroom foraging, if you know enough not to kill anybody with the bad ones.

 

What are some things you’re looking forward to in the fall?

Not sweating in the kitchen as much, guests that come with bigger appetites, and did I mention that I get to put more things with bacon?

 

Here’s an exclusive look at two of Will’s favorite recipes for fall:

 

Bacon-wrapped dates with curried apple hash

Serves 6 as an appetizer or hors d’oeuvres

 

Ingredients:

4 granny smith apples

½ cup finely chopped white onion

¼ cup extra virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon curry powder

salt and pepper to taste

2 tablespoons chopped chives

12 medjool dates, pitted

12 slices of bacon, preferably apple wood smoked, cooked about ½ way to crispy

¼ cup fresh goat cheese

1 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary

For the hash, sauté the onions in the olive oil in a medium skillet over low heat until just cooked through.  Meanwhile, run the apples through the julienne blade of a mandoline (If you do not have a mandoline, slice the apples into ¼ inch slices, then julienne into batons).  Add the apples to the sautéed onion mixture.  Cook for 5 minutes or until the apples are just cooked and resemble the consistency of pasta noodles.  Add the curry and the chives, cook for two more minutes, then season to taste.

For the dates, mix the goat cheese with the rosemary and stuff a small ball worth of the cheese mixture into the date.  Wrap with the bacon slice, secure with a toothpick and bake the dates in a 400 degree oven for 5-10 minutes.  Serve the hash warm and top with the dates, toothpick removed.

 

 

Grilled pork chops with Macomber turnip puree, bacon-braised kale, and sweet marjoram pesto

Serves 4

 

Ingredients:

For the pork chops

4 (Berkshire) center cut pork chops

4 cups autumn brine (recipe follows)

For the turnip puree

1 lb. Macomber turnips

2 cups heavy cream

For the bacon-braised kale

2 bunches Lacinato, dinosaur, or Tuscan black kale

4 slices applewood-smoked bacon, diced small

2 tbl. vegetable oil

1/2 cup chicken stock

For the marjoram pesto

1 bunch sweet marjoram (substitute oregano or sage if marjoram is not available)

1 bunch scallions

2 cloves garlic

zest of 1 lemon

1 cup good quality extra-virgin olive oil

For the autumn brine*

4 cups water

1 cup apple cider

1/4 cup salt

1/4 cup brown sugar

1 teaspoon fennel seeds

1 teaspoon black peppercorns

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

1 teaspoon coriander seeds

 

Brining the pork chops:

Place the portioned pork chops in the brine so that all meat and bone is completely submersed in the brining liquid.  Leave pork chops in the brine for 8 to12 hours or overnight (depending on when you begin your prep).

Macomber turnip puree:

Peel the turnips and dice them into 1/2 inch pieces.  Place the pieces in a small sauce pot and add enough cream to just cover the turnips.  Bring the mixture to a boil and then reduce to a simmer.  Cook for 30 minutes or until tender, stirring occasionally to keep the mixture from scorching.  Transfer the mixture to a food processor and puree until smooth.  Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Bacon-braised kale:

Remove the long, tough stems from the kale leaves and wash thoroughly in cold water.  Meanwhile, heat a large skillet or sauce pot over a medium flame and add the vegetable oil and bacon.  Stir the bacon pieces and allow the fat to render out.  Once the bacon appears to be crispy, add the stock to deglaze the pan and then add the kale.  Cover and allow the kale to cook for about 10 minutes, until tender.  Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Marjoram pesto:

Using your finger and thumb, strip the leaves of marjoram off of the stems.  Place the leaves in the bowl of the food processor.  Add the scallions, garlic and lemon zest to the marjoram.  Chop all the ingredients together and slowly add the olive oil until the mixture resembles a smooth pesto.  Season to taste.

To finish:

Preheat your gas or charcoal grill, allowing for a high heat section and a low heat section.  Remove the pork chops from the brine and pat-dry with a paper towel.  Season lightly with salt and pepper (remember that the pork will be seasoned throughout the meat because of the brining process and will need very little secondary seasoning.)

Place the pork chops on the hottest part of the grill and sear both sides until lightly charred, but not burned.  After they are seared, place the pork chops on the side of the grill that is set to a lower heat and allow them to cook until the pork chop reads 130 degrees on a meat thermometer (130 degrees will leave the pork slightly pink inside, similar to a medium temperature steak)

Portion the turnip puree, kale, and pork chops between four plates.  Top each pork chop with a tablespoon of pesto and serve.  

* A note on brining: In cooking, brining is a process similar to marinating in which meat is soaked in a salt solution (the brine) before cooking. Brining makes cooked meat moister by hydrating the cells of its muscle tissue before cooking.

 

Looking for a refreshing cocktail perfect for fall? Try the Grey Goose La Poire Peartini or the Grey Goose L’Orange French Martini: 

Grey Goose La Poire Peartini

Grey Goose L’Orange French Martini
2 parts Grey Goose L’Orange
1/2 part Chambord
1 1/2 parts pineapple

Add all to a cocktail shaker filled with ice and shake vigorously. Strain into a martini glass.

Grey Goose La Poire Peartini
2 parts Grey Goose LaPoire Flavored Vodka
3/4 part Disarronno Originale Liqueur
1/2 part simple syrup
3/4 part lemon juice
Pear slice for garnish

Add all ingredients to a cocktail shaker filled with ice and shake vigorously. Strain into a chilled martini glass and present with a pear slice.

This entry was posted on Tuesday, September 15th, 2009 at 11:01 am and is filed under Uncategorized. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.

Posted by ckeiler on 9/15/09 in Uncategorized 5 Comments »